I've been in Spain for 2 weeks. Two weeks, already! I've decided to take this blog in a new direction. I intend it to be solely a place to store my observations and experiences with my friends and family back home. That's you, humble lector. No more painstaking attempts to be artistic and/or philosophical. No more boring, mindless banter. I don't think my paltry 7 posts deserve this many adjectives, but here we are. I'll go ahead and start from the beginning now and try to describe the last 2 weeks the best that I can. I'm lacking in photos, but I'll reconcile that in the next few days. Vamos...
The Arrival
The actual traveling was a bit boring. I ate chinese food alone in the Chicago airport while watching the hustle and bustle of the hard-workers from around the world. I later found an outlet underneath a payphone and seated myself to try watching an episode of Dexter while I waited to board the plane. The battery on my Mac has already died (of course), and so I made my way to the boarding area and took a seat there. I overheard a girl saying her final goodbyes to someone, and I quickly inferred that she was part of the same program as I am. I inquired afterwards, and it turned out that she is living an hour away from me, in Santiago. We chatted for a bit and decided to meet in Madrid at the other end of the 8 hour flight. The flight was uneventful. I sat next to a dark-skinned Frenchman who did not speak much. I managed to spend my time reading and sleeping, and we landed in Madrid before I knew it. I looked out at the city lights and the long line of cars making their way to work in the early hours of the morning. "I made it," I thought to myself, "Spain and Europe, at last."
I met Wendy, my fellow ex-patriot, soon after entering the airport. We smiled at each other, knowing we had made it, and set ourselves to figuring out where to go in that huge airport. Customs was surprisingly easy for both of us, and we were boarding a train to the opposite side of the airport in no time. She walked me to my gate, because she had time to kill, and we exchanged info and agreed to meet up sometime over the next 8 months. The flight to La Coruna is primarily a business flight, and so I found myself surrounded by stiff suits and briefcases, while I had my shorts, straw hat and 3 bags to keep me company.
I landed. It was overcast and a bit rainy. "Well, at least I know what I'm in for already," I thought. Soon after, all of my "brilliant" arrival plans began to fall apart. There was no wi-fi in the airport for me to confirm if I was being met by someone from my school. There was no currency exchange in that small airport. I was gathering my thoughts and my luggage when a security guard approached to ask if I was Luke. Gladly, I said yes, and followed her to the three people waiting for me. My first lucky break. The director from my school had come to pick my and another guy up. The other guy never showed, but we stood there a while and waited while I shook the rust off of my Spanish abilities. Wow the accent is different from Mexico! A lot more "sh" sounds, although that comes from the influence of the other language that they all speak, Gallego. I felt relieved, but drained, as we left the parking lot.
We went directly to the school that I am working at. Two big double doors let you in from the sidewalk. The school is old, with 2 main staircases that lead to the upper two floors where the classrooms are located. We went to the teachers lounge and it begin to sink in that I would actually be a teacher, and working, not just living it up in Spain. I soon met, Irene, my saviour. She's a 36-year-old espanola, new teacher at the school as well. She speaks English well, with a British accent. She agreed to show me around a bit and we went to get tapas and a beer. It was 2 o'clock in the afternooon. We went to a small place and she explained to me that you just walk up to the counter and take what you want from a variety of freshly prepared tapas set in a glass case. The tapas ranged from fresh fish and roasted vegetables on a piece of french bread, to a cheesy, meaty, basically cheestick on a piece of bread as well. The first one that i tried had a bit of "pulpo", or octopus, on it, but i forget what else.
Seeing that I am still recounting the first day, I guess I should speed things along a bit. Irene helped me to meet with the random local who was willing to let me stay in his empty apartment for 2 days. Second break. I basically went there at about 8, watched some episodes of Dexter, and fell asleep at 9:30. I woke up the next day at 12ish. Jetlag had set in and I had not anticipated it. I walked around a bit that day to take in the city and also bought a cellphone. That's it. Slept early again.
They city is nice. I was in the heart of the Zona Vieja (Old District) which is composed of many pedestrian streets, small alleyways, cafes, bars and shops. The ocean is always present. The port is on one side of the bottleneck that leads to the peninsula, and the beach on the other. Around every corner one can find a pleasant park, plaza, or bench to sit on. Every single cafe has a tap that serves the regional beer, Estrella Galicia, which basically has a monopoly on the industry. It's very common to have a "corto" (short one) with tapas at the midday meal. All of the coffee comes in small concentrated cups, and with steamed milk if you want it. Everyone lives in apartments; the city is covered with 5-to-8-story apartment buildings. I wouldn't know how close to the ocean I was at first until i turned a corner and got hit by the fresh breeze blowing through. The weather has actually been perfect. It's has been unusually sunny for this time of the year, I've been told, and it feels like springtime in Louisiana with an ocean nearby. It was great...and then the weekend began...
Nightlife in Spain, and particularly in this city, is pretty intense. It´s a lot like New Orlenas in the sense that the party doesn´t usually end until you want to go home. This is a mid-sized city, though, and so the streets feel more crowded and it has a more communal feeling. The routine is different as well. One can stay in their house with friends until 1 or sometimes 2 in the morning and then decide to go out until 6 or 7. I have yet to do this, though, and usually head home at about 5.30. The streets are quite lively at this hour and it is nice to walk by the ocean so late at night. Friday night I met with Diana, the local girl that I met on couchsurfing.com, and she and a friend brought me to a local place called La Bombilla (the lightbulb). It is a long-standing restaurant that sells cheap tapas and beer to be eaten in the street. One can sample tortilla (classic egg and potato dish), filete (breaded steak with a red pepper slice and thinly sliced potatos), croqueta, and chorizo at the restaurant and then wash it down with an Estrella. It is nice to socialize in the street and watch the wide range of people gathered together. From there we walked across town to a an international mixer where Diana wanted to meet a girl from Belarus that she had also met on couchsurfing. We couldn´t find the girl, but eventually got into a conversation with some Brits, which was my first extended contact with any since Funland. It was nice, and my second job blossomed out of that conversation. Later we met some Spanish guys, thanks to the lovely Diana who draws attention, who turned out to be pretty cool. At about 1 o´clock the place shut down, Diana went home, and I continued on with my new friends. We went to Orzan, the main drag, and hopped around for a bit. We enlisted some girls, by promoting that I am American, and all went to a bar together. We danced for a while, but i got tired around 4:30, and went outside for a breath and ended up seeing a large, enraged and bloody Spaniard get arrested. People were hanging out of their upper apartment windows to see what all of the noise was about. It reminded me of my days living on the strip, and I noted not to look for apartments on these streets. Irene eventually met up with me and we took a taxi home.
I slept until 2 o´clock on Saturday and Irene suggested that we go to a small beach side community outside of the city for lunch. It was quiet and beautiful, and we had lunch overlooking a small inlet. For the first time I tried pulpo and a shellfish that they call zamburinas. I met with Diana and her friends later that night and we repeated the previous night, only in a different part of town. Her friends are cool, and the weekend was productive, if for nothing else, in that I met so many people. Everyone is interested in speaking a little English, and if I encourage them a bit, they become all the more comfortable and friendly.
Sunday I went to the beach with some of them before meeting with Irene to find the girl from New York that had just arrived. I had agreed to meet her on couchsurfing and to try to help her as best I could. Yet again, I met another beautiful person ( in all meanings of the word), and counted myself lucky to have met so many unique and interesting people in a short span of time. Her name is Bridget, and she made a change-of-life descision to quit her job and come to Spain, all without knowing any Spanish. She seems like a very motivated person and we share many interests. She had planned to view an apartment already, and after some ice cream and a trip to the beach, we all went to see the place. It was a superb apartment, with two lovely spanish girls and a german exchange student as roommates, and she immediately decided to live there. Here I am 2 weeks later still without a place of my own. I´ve been lazy, though, Mom. Thus, the weekend ended with all of us having dinner together and the hopes of a great year ahead...