a tedious process

surfing is hard:  First, you have to learn how to read and judge the weather conditions. Then, you have to hop two buses to get to the beach and hope that the ocean looks like you thought it would. Having the right board is turning out to be more fundamental than I thought, but I´m going to stick with the dauntingly small board that was lent to me. Squeezing your way into a wetsuit can be as hard as throwing the covers off when you wake up in the morning. Tackling the initial shock of the freezing Atlantic is like storming a castle, while battling the waves until you get to the safezone behind them is a lesson in patience and perseverance, one that often makes me wonder what I´m doing out there wobbling to and fro while trying to keep myself centered on the board. Then come the waves. You have to judge them, position yourself, time the take off, control your paddling motion, STAND UP, keep you balance and try to look cool at the same time. And if it doesn´t work out, you have to fight the waves and try again. I´ve got a lot of practice ahead of me, and man I want a car.